Houston Chronicle food critic Alison Cook has felt a roller coaster of emotion (as the kids say) for Chef Monica Pope's t'afia since it opened in 2002, but after a fresh visit over Thanksgiving, came away fully in love again. Chinese-style dumplings stuffed with mushrooms and blue cheese, cornmeal poundcake and baked tofu with orange-chili noodles got special call-outs for deliciousness. "Monica Pope, it turns out, is still writing her restaurant's story in a way that I want to read." [29-95]
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