Chronicle critic Alison Cook awards two stars to chef German Mosquera's Roots Bistro for its ambitious menu, friendly service and quality wine program. "This realization delighted me. But then, so does much of what chef German Mosquera produces at his unconventional young Montrose restaurant, where vegans, vegetarians, carnivores, omnivores and wine buffs can all sit down happily together, secure in the knowledge that everyone at the table is likely to find something interesting to eat and drink." [29-95]
Houston Press critic Katharine Shilcutt pays a visit to King's Biergarten in Pearland, where she discovers that the restaurant combines solid German classics with a fun atmosphere. "From the moment that the zwiebelrostbraten hit the table on my first visit, the thick scent of fried onions and well-seared beef was all-consuming. It smelled of childhood and happiness, even though my own childhood was devoid of any sirloins topped with fried onions in this particular style. Yet it's familiar because of its basic ingredients: a thick cut of steak, gravy made from drippings and butter, caramelized and crispy onions, a side of simply roasted potatoes." [Houston Press]
THE BLOGS: Restaurant Traveler Maya Fasthoff visits Oxheart and finds it to be one of Houston's most essential restaurants. Hank on Food has details from a media event at the newly renovated downtown location of Morton's the Steakhouse.