In a wide ranging essay published yesterday, Houston Chronicle critic Alison Cook argued that ceviche, the dish in which raw fish is cooked by acidic juice, is Houston's new iconic dish. Over the past five years, ceviche has moved from Mexican seafood restaurants like Tampico to high-end places like Jonathan Jones' Concepcion Roberto Castre's and Latin Bites that bring Peruvian influences. [29-95]
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