Without question, Champagne Jacques Selosse. I have one bottle of "Initiale" that was allocated to us a few months ago.
In a region where big producers call the shots, smaller growers are starting to gain momentum. Champagne Jacques Selosse is at the forefront of a movement intent on changing the nature of Champagne more to reflect its terroir and not a brand or importer. His winemaking ways are controversial and devisive--he uses oak, employs a sherry-style system for aging, and his wines can be powerful in an oxidative way--to the chagrin of conventional producers (and drinkers). "Initiale" is striking and distinctive. To be honest, I haven't put the wine on the list because I'm thinking of buying it for myself. We bought it for $105.00. It's the least expensive of all of his wines.
Champagne Power Hour
by Eric Sandler