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0213BWT.jpgPress critic Katharine Shilcutt uses the announcement that Branch Water Tavern is becoming The Federal Grill to riff on the "vaguely colonial, early American tavern bent that's a prevailing trend in restaurant names from Houston." And when this trend fades, Shilcutt speculates that "perhaps colonial Americana will be cast aside in favor of kitschy 1950s food, and we'll all be ordering Steak Diane and Cherries Jubilee with knowing smiles as chefs talk about recreating their grandmother's Chicken a la King with heritage hens and hand-foraged mushrooms." [Eating Our Words]

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