Houston Press critic Katharine Shilcutt reviews Midtown restaurant Charivari this week where she finds the spaetzle is, to steal a phrase, eye-rollingly good. "I've had this reaction to nearly every dish I've had at Charivari over the years, and am inordinately pleased — perhaps because of my own strong German heritage — to see the restaurant age like a fine wine. Ten years since my first visit, the Transylvanian (but really also German, Austrian, Romanian, Italian, French and Eastern European) Charivari is better now than it ever was. And considering how short Houstonians' attention spans are, the fact that Schuster and company have been this popular for this long is a minor miracle, too." [Houston Press]
Over at the Chronicle, Alison Cook writes that desserts are the star at Heights bistro Salé-Sucré, rather than entrees, which are "drawn from a menu of Greatest French Bistro Hits with no modern aspirations." She awards one star to the restaurant. "I can't think of a better end to a meal than Philippe Harel's take on mille-feuilles, the "thousand-leaf" confection that he personalizes with just three thin sheets of crisp almond pastry, stacked high with gently sweetened whipped cream and fresh raspberries. This Mille-Feuilles Framboise is simple and breathtakingly good." [Houston Chronicle]
The Blogs: Shanna and Felice from UrbanSwank decide that Triniti chef Ryan Hildebrand is the man. Catherine Martin spends an arbitrary visit at the new Alamo Drafthouse in Vintage Park where she awards the highest point total ever, +1890, for receiving 50% during the restaurant's training period. Finally, Mike Riccetti praises the Torta Al Pastor at Montrose restaurant Maria Selma.