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Dish of the Week

0314Virgies.jpgContinuing the barbecue theme in the run up to next week's Houston Barbecue Festival, Chronicle critic Alison Cook proclaims the brisket and link sandwich at Virgie's to be her dish of the week. "The fatty savor of oak-and-pecan-smoked beef becomes a trampoline for the porky handsprings of the sausage, the pickles and onions add that highly desirable textural ping, and just a little of the sweet-tart house barbecue sauce ties the whole thing together." [29-95]