Chronicle critic Alison Cook finds a couple of standout dishes at Biryani Pot, an Indian restaurant that specializes in Hyderabad cuisine, but does not award the restaurant any stars. She finds too many dishes are over-salted or just boring. As she explains, "I'd travel to Biryani Pot's Westheimer near Hillcroft for these two goat dishes alone, braving the cramped, inadequate parking lot ... That's because I am an inveterate pursuer of South Asian food, whether Indian or Pakistani. I always like a chance to try a regional dish I've only read about before .... In the end, Biryani Pot is not consistent enough to rate a star and a "good" recommendation. But it's a worthwhile stop for those who want to know more about the regional Indian cuisines that are gaining purchase in the Houston market - and who are willing to cherry-pick through the menu." [Houston Chronicle]
At L'Olivier in Montrose, Press critic Katharine Shilcutt decides that she likes the restaurant that turns out well-executed French classics. "Diners don't have to worry about tasting menus taking over the dining scene to the exclusion of everything else. Instead, the modern diner's palate and horizons are expanding simultaneously — especially in Houston. There is an appreciation for varied cuisines both high and low, both conceptual and grounded, both wild and refined, for woolly, adventurous tasting menus and calm, continental meals that call back to a more elegant version of living — and of dining. There is room and indeed an appreciation for both, and L'Olivier makes a very persuasive argument for the latter of the two." [Houston Press]
In Houston (Modern Luxury) magazine, local food writer John DeMers calls Brooklyn Athletic Club a "game changer" for the way the restaurant brings together a well-designed space with chef Jeff Axline's tricked-up comfort food. "Two other starters have delighted me so far. One is the almost too lush baked mac and cheese fortified by braised short ribs—just the meat, thankfully, not the bone—with American and artisanal, local Redneck cheddar cheeses; the other is pork rillette. I can't say I ever embraced my inner rillette until now. But spreading the thick, smooth pork concentrate over thin, hyper-crispy slices of Slow Dough baguette ... I think I finally understand." [Houston Magazine]
The Blogs: Catherine Martin disagrees with the Yelpers who don't like Goro & Gun but is traumatized by the bathroom's red walls. Patty and David have a good dinner at Underbelly and a solid breakfast at Hong Kong Cafe. Daniel the Gluttonous Chinaman gets his duck on at Peking Cuisine. Robb Walsh features a guest post by his daughter Katie on Ghandi district staples Hot Breads and Himalaya. Finally, Hank on Food finds good cheeseburgers at recently opened The Barrel & Brew in Stafford.