The tasting menu is also a means by which Gaston can unleash himself a bit from the already high-concept menu at Cove and soar into the stratosphere. My colleague, Robb Walsh, recently compared Cove on a regular night to Nobu—the eponymous restaurant of chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa—who's famous for combining Japanese and Peruvian dishes into one harmonious, fish-forward cuisine: tiraditos and sushi, ceviche and sashimi all in one stunning menu.[Gastronaut]
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