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What's In a Name?

0606Hugo.jpgChronicle critic Alison Cook offers her own theory on what the name Caracol means about chef Hugo Ortega's new restaurant. Rather than an archealogical site in Belize, Cook notes that "'Caracoles' are sea snails that are a beloved ingredient in the coastal area of Veracruz, where Ortega has found frequent inspiration for his seafood dishes." A restaurant from a James Beard Award finalist that's built around fresh seafood and would give La Fisheria a run for its money: highly intriguing. [29-95]