Beleaguered Dallas Food Critic Reviews Underbelly and Loves It

Leslie Brenner is likely on many a Dallas chefs and restauranteurs' naughty list this holiday (especially John Tesar of Knife), but not in Houston. The Dallas Morning News restaurant critic visits Underbelly where she finds the Chris Shepherd's homage to Houston's melting pot a delight. The chicken-fried crispy bycatch served with pork fried rice impressed, but the Korean braised goat and dumplings didn't live up to the hype. Brenner concludes her meal experience writing "I’ll be happy to return, and hopefully soon... Risk a lot, and you sometimes stumble. Sometimes, though, you rock."