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Three Stars for Caracol; New Churrascos Is a Hit


Churrascos [Max Burkhalter]

The Houston Press' Kaitlin Steinberg headed to Churrascos in Gateway Memorial City: She had nothing but good things to say about the Cordúa family's newest location. From the classic Latin American dishes, to the reinventions, like a blue tilapia marinated in agua de chile and topped with crispy kale, which Steinberg refers to as a "nod to the restaurants' evolution." The campechana here has South American flavor and an upscale twist in the form of lobster coated in Peruvian leche de tigre. Steinberg says that another menu highlight is the whole fried fish battered "in a mixture of cornmeal, cocoa and ­cinnamon that David explains is an homage to pinolillo, a traditional Nicaraguan drink he remembers from family trips there." She recommends ordering a classic, chimichurri-topped steak and visiting during brunch to sample a variety of dishes.

The Houston Chronicle's Alison Cook reviewed Caracol: Cook finds even those who aren't keen on seafood can find something to enjoy here, like the tlayuda, since even though "the focus is oceanic, there is plenty for people who don't eat seafood, too." She remarks that the shellfish in Caracol's version of paella, Arroz a la Tumbada, couldn't have been more perfectly cooked. Cook laments that the "ceviches seem to have veered to the overadorned and fruit-soused side since the restaurant's early days last December." All in all, she awards the restaurant three stars.

More reviews: Joanna O'Leary visits classic Montrose coffee spot Agora, Hank on Food checks out the Houston Barbecue Fest and Patty and David head to Liberty Kitchen & Oysterette.

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