The arrival of the brand new restaurant wonderland that is the Marriott Marquis in Downtown Houston brought with it the arrival of what will no doubt be the city’s hottest sports bar: Biggio’s. Unfortunately, the bar’s major-league backing and hype didn’t quite live up to the standards of typically tepid Houston Chronicle food editor Greg Morago.
In a cranky “first look” of the bar, which opened its doors on December 26, Morago takes Biggio’s to task for its atmosphere and food. Morago’s biggest gripes, though, were with the restaurant’s decor and its seating, which he describes as “terrible uncomfortable.” “The bar stools are hard and clunky (why weren't padded bar chairs with backs installed here?),” writes Morago. “And, worse, there's no bar rail underfoot.” Quelle horreur!
Despite the fact that Biggio’s has billed itself since its announcement as Houston’s best new spot to watch the game, Morago was surprised by the number of televisions that “litter” the restaurant. “Those loud walls of nonstop sports and news might draw attention from other sports-minded design details such as wood paneling made from reclaimed bleachers and the front of the bar that boasts a slugger's lineup of baseball bats,” he writes.
Morago also takes plenty of issue with Biggio’s food, calling its burger “barely passable” and noting that the bar hadn’t quite stocked all the liquor available on the menu on his visit. As an upside, he does note that his fellow patrons seemed to dig the bar’s selection of beers.
Fortunately, Biggio’s has plenty of time to recover from these missteps — and impress the suddenly picky Greg Morago — before the Super Bowl arrives in February.