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Why In The World Is Ken Hoffman Still Reviewing Fast Food Joints?

CultureMap’s newest columnist is apparently a fan of Long John Silver’s

That cod, though.
Long John Silver’s

Columnist Ken Hoffman, the newest addition to CultureMap’s staff in Houston, has officially brought his series of fast food restaurant reviews to his new gig.

Hoffman hasn’t exactly signed on as the outlet’s critic, but his Drive-Thru Gourmet column will continue to review some of the planet’s most ubiquitous fast food offerings. Last week, Hoffman offered up a glowing review of Arby’s new pepperoni-topped pizza sliders, and now he’s back with an equally effusive take on Long John Silver’s new Homestyle Buttermilk Cod.

Check out this excerpt from the bizarrely positive review:

The cod is caught and flash-frozen right on the boat, so it’s as fresh as can be, given its distribution to 1,000 restaurants across America. The fish is hand-breaded and fried up fresh to order in each Long John Silver’s restaurant. They’re good-sized pieces, you’re getting a good deal of fish for a good deal on the price.

Good to know?

Hoffman also makes note of Long John Silver’s noble attempts to ensure that their deep-fried fish filets are caught sustainably.

The cod is caught in the chilly water of the northern Pacific, up Alaska way. If you’re worried about Long John Silver’s contributing to over-fishing the area, no worries. This is one of the most sustainable fishing areas in the world. Good for Long John’s. Every little bit helps.

Perhaps this means that the world of restaurant reviews is going in a slightly less high-brow direction. After all, Alison Cook, Hoffman’s former colleague at the Chron, offered up a praise-packed review of Guy Fieri’s restaurant in Cancun International Airport last week.

Time will tell whether this ridiculous trend will actually continue. But at least we know that Buttermilk Cod is worth a try.

CORRECTION: This article has been updated to reflect that Hoffman’s reviews are not in fact brand new, but an iteration of his work at the Chron. We regret the error.

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