clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

New Neo-Soul Eatery Indigo Opens Tonight, Poking Fun at Racist Stereotypes

Chef Jonny Rhodes wants to “own those stereotypes” with a five-course menu that mixes soul food with social critiques

Indigo/Instagram

Indigo, a new neo-soul eatery from a former Oxheart line cook, is opening tonight in the Lindale Park area of North Houston for its first of two nightly dinner services.

Eater previously reported in 2016 that husband-and-wife proprietors Jonny and Chana Rhodes would launch a barbecue restaurant in the 517 Berry Road space. However, the Rhodes changed focus for their limited-seat restaurant, opting to serve modern takes on traditional soul food in homage to their heritage and Jonny’s roots in the community.

Without investor funding, the Rhodes were responsible for completely gutting and building out the previously abandoned space themselves. Diners will now find a blue-hued room featuring a charming U-shaped counter inlaid with stone and concrete that seats 13. An Instagram post indicates that the table has been set in preparation for this evening with indigo-colored placemats and dining chairs.

As far as the food is concerned, Jonny is drawing from his culinary background in illustrious Houston kitchens like Caracol and James Beard Award-winning Oxheart. His menu features five courses worth of twists on traditional soul food with biting names like “Cornrows and Convictions,” a braided squash dish with a pumpkin butter glaze, or “Affirmation of a Stereotype,” a chilled watermelon broth spiked with mint, rose oil, and blueberry preserves.

“You see a lot of stereotypes of who we are as people in society,” Jonny explains. “Sometimes it’s problematic for us, but we want to step into the light and own those stereotypes.”

Indigo features two seatings at 6 and 8:45 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, which last two and a half hours each. The cost is $79 per person for five courses with the option to add wining pairings. Check Indigo’s website for reservations and additional information.

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater Houston newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world